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Australian
Coffee
Coffee growing began in
Australia in 1880, but didn't survive, and was defunct by 1926. It
was re-established in the early 1980's in much the same areas as the
original plantations, and coffee is now farmed from Lismore, in
northern New South Wales, to Cape York in far north Queensland. The
largest plantations, near Mareeba on the Atherton Tablelands, are
fully mechanised, but there are many smaller farms where traditional
hand cultivation is used. In general, Australian coffees can be
characterized as:
Mild Medium
Body Medium Acidity Neutral to slightly sweet
flavour.
The very best Australian
coffees I've tasted have a creamy mouthfeel and a distinctive
"butterscotch" flavour and aroma, but they are exceedingly rare, and
usually unappreciated by the grower. The bulk of the coffees are
very average indeed, distinguished only by their high prices, due to
the high cost environment they grow in. Several samples I've
received recently have been both expensive AND faulty, with off
flavours caused by poor growing and processing practices.
One of the most common problems I've encountered
(and it's not limited to Australia) is that coffee farmers are
farmers first and foremost, and more interested in
the size of the crop than the end product produced from it. You'd be
amazed by the number of Aussie coffee farmers who have no idea what
their own beans taste like. Their credentials as "coffee drinkers"
rest entirely on the jar of Nescafe in the pantry!
My personal take on
the Aussie coffee industry is that if it's to be successful in the
long term it is going to need a hefty dose of reality in the form of
rigorous quality control and world competitive prices, in much the
same fashion that our wine industry built itself into a world class
player. Currently the majority of Australia's output is second-rate
when compared to the world leaders, despite the efforts of of those
involved in the trade to talk it up as the next "Jamaican Blue
Mountains" or "Hawaiian Kona". Only the asking prices are
comparable!
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